Surfing is an excellent way to enjoy the ocean and the thrill of the waves while taking in breathtaking scenery that will create lasting memories. This is a great place to start if you're just learning how to surf. Taking the time to understand the basics will go a long way toward helping you surf safely, enjoy the learning process, and ultimately progress to a seasoned surfer, all while experiencing the sheer joy of learning a new skill.
Choose your Spot on the Beach
Choosing a crowd-free area with space to practice is very important. Also, selecting the right surfboard for your skill level is crucial. For beginners, a longboard is recommended as it provides stability and buoyancy. Although your heart may be aching to hit a reef break, your goal is to look for easy spilling break waves in the 2 - 4ft range.
Practice your Paddling
Practice makes perfect precisely what you want to remember as you learn to paddle. To begin, you need the correct position. Lie belly-down on your board with your body weight centred. There should be a couple of inches between your feet and the back of the board. The correct position allows you to glide effortlessly through the water.
Next, use a crawl stroke to cup your hands and paddle with both arms. As you gain experience, you will be better able to balance the right and left sides of your body and learn to handle "chop" or rough water by slightly lifting your chest to decrease the weight and keep your board from going under.
Practice your Pop Up
When you quickly move from a prone or lying down position to standing, this is called popping up. Popping up is another essential skill to master when learning how to surf. It's good to practice on the beach to gain this skill. You start the motion by doing a push-up, and once your arms are fully extended, the next step is to quickly pull both knees in and hop to your feet.
Catching a Wave
Once you're ready to catch a wave, paddle until your waist or chest is deep. Then, lie down and paddle straight into the waves, not at an angle. Next, you will turn around by paddling hard on the side you want to turn away from until you face the shore. Turn your head to watch for waves; when you see one about to break, look for the highest point of the wave and start paddling towards it. When you feel the wave's momentum moving faster than you are paddling, it is time to grasp each rail firmly and quickly pop up onto the board, just like you've been practising.
Keep your body slanted slightly forward and your weight centred when standing on your board. Firmly place one foot near the tail of your board and the other just above the middle. Crouch down to maintain a low centre of gravity, keeping your arms out as you look forward and maintain your balance.
Remember, this is only the beginning. There is no limit to the excitement you can have learning to surf. Work hard to practice the above techniques, prioritise your safety, and enjoy the thrill of the waves!